The Highland Connection

There is something deep within the psyche of the Scots that binds them to the land of their birth like an invisible, golden umbilical cord. Indeed the further we travel from home, the drums beat a little harder, hastening the heartbeat through our bodies, urging us back like proverbial frogs returning to where we were spawned.

I can’t say whether all those who travel far from their homeland feel the same calls home and the same sense of a lost and yearned for lover, but the Scots certainly lament the separation in words and song as if it were so.

As someone who left Scotland many years ago, stopping along the way in England (on missionary work) for a few years, then arriving in Australia ten years ago, I can say the trips home over the years have become more and more meaningful to me. It’s as if the simple act of soaking up the pure air of the highlands, and drinking the spring water actually has a restorative effect on my mind, body and spirit.

Of course I am well aware this is a biased, romantacised view of my relationship with this proud, small country, nestled in the Northern part of Europe. If you are not Scottish, you may be wondering what is so appealing about a country that is most famous for cold, slate gray skies, rain, haggis and golf!

Tribal nation
Everyone is different, but for me, coming home is about ‘reconnecting’. Scotland was, and still is to a certain extent, a tribal country, and it’s this instinct of tribe that I think must stir me when I come home. When I say my ‘tribe’ I don’t just mean, parents or siblings and aunties and uncles, but the tribes of the past.

For many years I have pondered my ancestry, and I think the older one gets, there  is more desire to trace back where we have come from, we all need that sense of tribe. It may be a sign of the times that we are all living such separated and scattered lives and we need to gather the facts ourselves instead of stories being handed down by the generations.

It was this interest in the past and the need to reconnect with my family after we had suffered a huge loss, that led me back to explore  Scotland once more.

“It’s as if the simple act of soaking up
the pure air of the highlands, and
drinking the spring water actually
has a restorative effect on
my mind, body and spirit”

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Discovering Dublin

Dublin

Well I have to say in all honesty, when we first arrived in Dublin, it wasn’t what I had been expecting. I had heard there were pubs, clubs and restaurants galore with people spilling out on to the street all full of Guinness and the ‘craic’. Here I was thinking we would just step off the boat and straight into a 24-hour party. Well, not quite.

When we arrived in Dublin Port I hadn’t quite appreciated the fact we were in the North East end of the city. The ‘party’ and the ‘crek/craic/crak’ or all of the above (if that’s what you’re looking for) is more in the South East end of Dublin – which actually isn’t that far. Luckily we had two stops in Dublin planned which gave us ample opportunity to get our bearings. Our first was just an overnight stop as soon as we arrived. The second visit would be for a couple of days on our way back to Holyhead.

Our very first experience of Irish hospitality was at the Clontarf Castle Hotel. Perfectly situated just ten minutes away from Dublin Port (and just 2 miles from the City centre). We couldn’t have wished for a warmer welcome.

Clontarf Castle Hotel is a majestic building steeped in history, yet modern and fresh. The grand entrance is flanked by some pretty impressive stone lions, and the hallway was beautifully decorated around some funky red chandeliers which I fell totally in love with (or were they purple?). It felt traditional, luxurious and glamorous all rolled into one.

If you’ve been lucky enough to hear the words “You have a room upgrade” on your travels, then you know that can mean anything from an extra few feet in your room, to an extra inch of sea view when you stand on your tip toes. In Clontarfe Castle Hotel, when they say you have a room upgrade, prepare to be ‘wowed’. When I walked in the bedroom I said ‘wow’ until I realised there was another room, then another … ‘oh wow’! I draped myself luxuriously across the four poster bed, and the leather sofas, and the chaise longue … oh heaven. This is how we are meant to live.

Alas, our stay here was for one night only, but we certainly made the most of it. After a sumptuous night’s sleep we were ready to set off and discover what Ireland had in store for us.

On our return to Dublin we were a bit weary and perhaps a bit teary that we had come to the last part of our trip. We had a truly memorable time visiting Kilkenny, Kinsale, Limerick, Galway and Rosscommon and I suppose we felt the best of our holiday was behind us. We couldn’t have been more wrong!

Our base for the next couple of days was the Sandymount Hotel located practically across the road from Dublin’s Aviva Stadium (for all you Rugby fans). The hotel is only a five minute walk from the DART rail link which takes you straight into the heart of things in the city.

If you have read many of my travel posts, you will know I am a big fan of the ‘Hop-on-Hop-off‘ Bus Tours particularly if you are new to a city or you are short on time. We purchased a ticket for the Red Tour (other tours are available) at the cost of £16.50. The complete tour takes 90 minutes, and of course, you can hop on and hop off in areas that spark your interest. The ticket is good value as it last for 2 days.

When Peter and I visit these areas we are keen to do things that aren’t necessarily on the tourist route. Neither of us are particularly keen on heaving, noisy crowds, so when we find a little gem that we think we are the first to discover, we are extremely pleased with ourselves.

Confession time in Dublin

One such gem we found in Dublin (after sampling a few pubs along the way) was The Confession Box.  maxresdefault This is what I would call an authentic Dublin pub, cosy, lively, and full of local regulars who are full of character.

Imagine our joy when the traditional music started. Here we were with Guinness in hand, thigh slapping and foot tapping to tunes such as – yes you’ve guessed it – Rocky Road to Dublin (bet they never got sick of playing that …). We liked it so much we went back a second night, by which point we too felt like regulars and we sung along with the best of them. By the time came to last orders, we were feeling like we were the ones that had to leave the party early and go home. So while I would like to keep this little place to ourselves for any future trips back to Dublin, I feel I have to recommend this little spot.

Dublin was an absolute blast and lifted our spirits so heartily, ensuring we left a piece of our hearts there forever, a smile on our face and a longing to come back.

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The natural wonders of Loch Lomond

Loch LomondI have always had a deep affection for Loch Lomond in Scotland. It’s one of those magical places I try to visit when I ‘come home’ just so I can reconnect and breathe in the majesty of my surroundings. I actually feel a physical and emotional (maybe even spiritual) sense of calm wash over me as soon as I arrive.

Perhaps one of the most surprising things I can tell you about Loch Lomond is that you could be wandering around Sauchiehall Street in the epicentre of a bustling city one minute and 45 minutes later you could be in one of the most tranquil and serene locations in the UK. In fact the southern shores of Loch Lomond are only 14 miles (23KM) north of Glasgow, yet the two locations are strikingly different

As you meander along the A82 you will catch your first glimmer of the freshwater loch on the right hand side. This teasing glimpse signals the appropriate moment to lay down all your stresses and cares and just immerse yourself in the splendour of nature as it opens up before you.

Here you can experience the change in landscape as you enter the gateway between the lowlands and highlands of Scotland. Loch Lomond actually lies on the Highland Boundary Fault which is typified by the scenic drama played out through glacier lochs and brooding glens. Indeed the natural beauty and striking landscapes of this area are a direct product of its geological history.

The Trossachs is one of the many ranges of hills in the area. The word ‘trossachs’ literally translated from the Gaelic, means ‘bristled territory’. You would be hard pushed not to be in awe of your surroundings, particularly if you are a keen hillwalker.  The area boasts 21 Munros [mountains over 3000ft (914m)] 19 Corbetts (smaller mountains between 2500ft and 3000ft). Of course there are plenty stop off points if you are in need of refreshment along the way.

One of my favourite villages is Luss. It first came to my attention as a child. My grannie used to watch a show called ‘Take the High Road’ and I remember saying to her, ‘where is that place? It looks beautiful”. The soap was filmed in Luss against a backdrop of hills and lochs and it captured my imagination from then on.

Luss, Loch Lomond

 

Many of the cottages that line the street of Luss were originally built to house workers involved in the local slate quarry in the 18th century. The houses have been restored to their former glory and Luss has now been designated as a conservation village.

Of course, I have to be honest, I would avoid Luss in the middle of the day at the height of summer unless you want to share the loch shore line with bus loads of tourists. Luckily this area does not need to rely on good weather. The area is just as charming through all the seasons of the year.

If you do visit Luss, and need somewhere to stay, I recommend The Lodge on Loch Lomond. The food is first class and not too overpriced given the location. The rooms can be slightly on the higher end of the scale but again, not overpriced when you consider waking up in the morning to the sound of the water gently lapping under your balcony, or the sight of the hills silhouetted against the morning sky. Some of the rooms include a sauna so be sure to have a good look at all the facilities in each room before you book.

I couldn’t write a post on Loch Lomond without mentioning The Drovers. This is an enchanting rest stop located at the top end of Loch Lomond on the A82 on the way to Crianlarich. The Drovers Inn was used by Highland drovers who used to drive their cattle down the side of Loch Lomond to the markets. As you walk in you could be forgiven for thinking nothing has changed in over two of hundred years. Be warned though, you need to embrace the quirky at this stopover. If you can see beyond peeling paint and uneven, rickety floorboards then you are in for a unique experience. For me, the smell of the fire, a welcoming whisky and the tartan carpets are as warming as a welcome home hug. 

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Sizzling in the summer sun – in Ireland

IrelandI know, it’s not a headline you read too often, but it happens. On our recent trip to Ireland somehow we managed to pick the time of the heatwave and we saw Ireland in a light we never expected. In basking hot, sizzling, tar melting sunlight.

We were ready for the grey, dreich days, sideways rain and howling winds but we didn’t get any of that. In fact so ill-equipped was I, that I had to go and buy some emergency summer clothes.

The wonderful weather was a bonus true, but that wasn’t what made the trip so memorable.

Ireland was another one of those places I had always had a ‘thing’ about. It’s like Scotland’s favourite cousin. You know you’re going to have fun when there is an Irish person in the room. If you know an Irish person, you’ll know what I mean. 

As most people know the landscape in Ireland is so diverse that it’s impossible to describe it adequately even with the most carefully chosen adjectives. Stunning, breathtaking, awe-inspiring, atmospheric, romantic and rugged to name but a few.

If you only have a limited time it can be tricky to decide which part of Ireland you’d like to see. I think we just about managed to have a bite size chunk at everything from the rugged coastline to the bustling city, so in the next couple of posts I’ll share some of our journey to give you some inspiration for yours.

Within most of my travel posts, I often try to impart the personal connection, or personal discovery associated with the our chosen destinations. Often though we try new destinations and create new ‘meaningful’ places in our lives.

Our trip was spurred on by a combination of all of the above. Neither of us had ever been to Ireland, but we knew it was a place we just had to visit. Peter’s ancestors on his father’s side were the O’beirnes located in Rosscommon so we were keen to see if we could incorporate a few hours out of itinerary to visit the County and discover any old names on the gravestones or in the Church records. I also have links to Ireland, though at this stage they are a little more tenuous. I am currently researching my Family Tree and have found evidence of my great grandparents marrying in Ireland. At this stage I’m trying to find out whether my great grandmother was Irish. So plenty to get excited about, let alone familiarising ourselves with some of the nooks and crannies of this stunning island.

My next posts will introduce you to Dublin, Galway, Limerick, Kilkenny, Kinsale and Rosscommon – all very different, all with their own charm. I’m not giving away my favourites to you just yet, but suffice to say we very definitely left a little bit of our heart Ireland.

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Indulgence weekend in London

The Ampersand HotelIt’s become a bit of a tradition that whenever my sister, my daughter and myself are in the same hemisphere at the same time, we grab some quality time together.

It’s important to me that my daughter, who has lived in Australia since she was seven, is able to connect with family so she has a sense of belonging. Added to this, my sister is ten years younger than me, so we are building a new relationship since she was fairly young when I left home.

All in all it’s a special time when get together, making happy memories to call on what when find ourselves across the world from each other.

For our most recent get-together I chose South Kensington in London. After nights of painful research, feeling ever more depressed by prices or uninspiring hotels  I eventually found the ideal hotel for our weekend.

If you ever get the opportunity to stay in this part of London, I highly recommend The Ampersand Hotel. I will say up front, it is on the pricey side for three of us (but reasonable by London standards) so a weekend would be indulgent but do-able.

The issue I find with London, as with most cities, is that you will pay and arm and a leg for the tiniest (and sometimes grubbiest) of rooms. Most people make the choice to put up with a really small room in exchange for being right in the heart of things. It’s only a base after all. However, for this trip I wanted it to be a bit more of a treat so I opted for the luxury end of town.

I also had the added consideration of having three women in their 20’s 30’s and 40’s … where could we stay that we would all be equally satisfied with?

Should we get separate rooms or could we find a big enough room for the three of us?

What drew me to The Ampersand was the fact it did not seem much more expensive than many of the other hotel sites I had trawled through. It was able to provide us with a huge room that accommodated the three of us easily. Eating and drinking was taken care of at Apero, a restaurant and cocktail bar in the hotel’s atmospheric basement. The Drawing Room, serving teas, coffee and cake in the most decadent of surroundings would ward of the exhaustion after a day walking around the museums (my sister and I don’t ‘do’ shopping, but if you do, South Kensington is perfect).

The rooms were absolutely stunning. We loved the statement wallpapers, huge velvet headboards and the retro tiling in the bathroom.

What I hadn’t realised when I booked the hotel was that it was newly refurbished, so everything was immaculate and gleaming when we got there. I had booked some months ahead, and in the intervening time The Ampersand won numerous accolades from top 100 British Hotels, to The world’s second most popular new hotel.

Best of all, everything was on our doorstep. South Kensington tube station was literally across the road, making travel around London easy. To be honest there is more than enough to do in South Kensington so chances are once you are there you won’t need or want to leave.

Our weekend was about catching up over food and drink, and taking in a few exhibitions at the V&A museum which was literally five minutes walk (if you didn’t take the detour through Hyde Park as our phone’s GPS suggested). Other attractions nearby include the Natural History Museum, Science Museum, Christie’s South Kensington, Royal Albert Hall and the Proud Gallery.

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The Ampersand Hotel is situated just a minute’s walk from South Kensington tube station, and is well connected to Heathrow airport. One of the services offered was pick up from the airport, which came in handy as my sister’s flight was early in the morning.

If you are travelling on the underground the District, Circle and Piccadilly lines all stop at South Kensington underground station and can connect you to the rest of London in minutes. An Oyster Card can be purchased from the station ticket office, which is the most cost-efficient method of using London public transport. Click here for a tube map.

After a weekend at The Ampersand we all felt thoroughly spoiled by our French feel surrounds, attentive staff and endless cocktails. A perfect girl’s weekend.

 

 

 

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Breathtaking Bohemian Break

PragueWith four whole days to ourselves over the Easter break we decided we really should make the most of it and visit somewhere in Europe. After ruling Ireland and Rome out (given the fact it was Easter) we decided to go somewhere we actually knew very little about.

Prague, or Praha as it is pronounced, is the capital city of the Czech Republic. It is the historical capital of Bohemia. The word “Bohemian” was used to denote the Czech people as well as the Czech language – this was before the word “Czech” became prevalent in the English language.

Both Peter and I had heard that Prague was ‘beautiful’ but other than this singularly, over-used adjective we didn’t have a lot else to go on. At least we knew it was part of the EU and part of the Schengen area so that made travel relatively straight forward.

After a some basic research on Trip Advisor and lastminute.com we decided on two days in the centre of Prague. The plan was to treat this very much as a ‘taster tour’ since neither of really knew what to expect when we arrived. Flights operate from Heathrow to Prague with a flying time of less than 2 hours. The main city area is only 15-20 km away from the airport so getting there was no problem at all.

Catching a cab at the airport was also very easy. You can’t miss the yellow taxis parked right outside the airport terminal. Most Czechs speak English, but it doesn’t harm to be prepared with your address written down to give to your driver. I also noticed the cab drivers seem to be a fairly honest bunch with their standard fares published. For this trip from the airport to the centre of Prague you can expect to pay around 650-700kc (which works out at around £22). Incidentally the currency is the Koruna (Crown) and the exchange rate is in the region of 1Kc = 0.033 GBP.

Our base for the weekend was Hotel Jalta located at the historic St Wenceslas Square. Hotel Jalta is a five-star hotel which is considered by many to be a masterpiece of Czech design. It was a beautiful building and there had obviously been much thought put into the interior design and décor too. The rooms were immaculate and tastefully decorated and the fact we had a street view with a balcony was just an added bonus.

Secret past

During our stay at Hotel Jalta we were treated to something a little out of the ordinary.

On the second underground floor, the hotel has its own secret fallout shelter complete with massive concrete walls which prevent any radioactive contamination and aerial bombardment.  The shelter has room for 250 people. One room leads through a small entrance onto a semi third floor. In the early days of its operation, there also existed a general staff hospital with a secret entrance. The hospital was apparently serviced by 30 doctors and nurses. In 1997, the shelter was removed from the network of fallout shelters for civilian protection. It was eerily fascinating to see areas such as ‘the listening room’, escape tunnels to the metro and the area where a select few would be able to huddle in the event of a disaster.

Outside and above ground St Wenceslas Square itself has been the scene of many historical events. Most recently in November 1989 a large gathering of over 250,000 people started what is known as the Velvet Revolution. This was the revolution that was responsible for ending the Communist totalitarian regime in Czechoslovakia.

Golden Age of Prague

Given the short period of time we had to ‘see’ Prague we decided the Hop on Hop off tour was the best choice to give us the flavour we were looking for. The ticket we bought was valid for 24 hours across three city routes and included a one hour boat cruise. The ‘canny’ Scots in me thought the ticket was good value for money, priced at 450 CZK which works out at around £14.

On the Hop on Hop off you can expect to discover why Prague is known as Golden Prague – or Magic Prague. The historic centre of the capital consists of four medieval settlements. Tours will take you to the Old Town, the New Town, the Lesser Town and/or the Hradčany, which is the largest historical area brimming with national cultural monuments. Quite rightly it has been included in the UNESCO world cultural heritage list. To many Prague is quite simply the beating Heart of Europe.

Eclectic enchantment

If I were to tell you one standalone aspects that I enjoyed about Prague it would be the historical layering of its amazing buildings and architecture. I have never been anywhere that consisted of so many building styles – Romanesque rotundas and basilicas, Gothic churches, Renaissance palaces, Baroque, as well as many Neo-Renaissance and Art Nouveau buildings.

Look out for Charles Bridge – the oldest bridge in Prague founded in 1357 by Charles IV. The bridge is adorned with 30 statues of sculptures and saints. You can can also hop off at Prague Castle – the most important historic monument to the Czech people. This is the seat of power for the President (and many Kings before him). Rather than give too much away I will leave the rest for you to explore. See how many spires you can count – apparently in modern Prague there are about 500 spires and towers.

I suppose it’s quite telling that when I look back at our photographs – there are very little pictures of Peter and I. They are all of the beautiful buildings.

What can I say – there is just so much to see and do in Prague and –no – one adjective isn’t enough to do it justice – and neither are two days! I can’t wait to go back.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Quietly ecstatic about Skara Brae

Skara Brae

Skara Brae

We only actually had three days in The Orkney Islands, but I feel I could enthuse endlessly about this magical and mysterious landscape. I can’t help thinking these islands reward you for being the type of traveller who is looking for something beyond the fleeting memories of sun, sea and sangria. This place isn’t a summer fling – it gets under your skin and you carry it around with you for life, very close to your heart.

I had nurtured this place in my imagination for some time before we arrived as I desperately wanted to see Skara Brae with my own eyes. I love archaeology and history and I particularly love to learn about how societies lived and operated, so when I read about this neolithic village that had been perfectly preserved, I was totally captivated.

Imagine the scene, The Orkney Islands 1850. It’s the middle of winter and a huge storm is lashing around the islands (probably nothing new there you may say). However, this particular storm brought extremely high tides which stripped the grass from a large mound. What lay exposed underneath was a number of stone buildings. Luckily the local Laird at the time was interested in the find and wished to excavate further.

Whether this is the first that the islanders had heard of such a settlement is debatable. I am sure if generations upon generations knew beforehand, they would have felt very protective about the treasure that had been unearthed.

Storm scars Skara Brae

By 1868 the remains of four houses had been excavated and at this point the excavations came to a halt. Yet another storm hit the island and this, unfortunately, damaged some of the previously excavated buildings. It was decided that a wall should be built to protect these finds – and surprise surprise as they began work on the wall – they discovered more archaeology.

Over the years these excavations continued. Slowly but surely Skara Brae (Skerrabra) village was uncovered, but even in the 1930s, archaeologists didn’t realise the scale of this discovery. Up until the 1970s this settlement was believed to be a Pictish village (which would have still been extremely exciting of course).

It’s thanks to carbon dating we know this settlement dates back to late Neolithic (between 3200BC and 2200BC). The time scale really is too much to wrap your head around I think.

It was the realisation of a long held hope for me, to finally see this archaeology with my own eyes. It was much bigger and more detailed than I had imagined it would be, but the dwellings were perfectly constructed. What a backdrop these early settlers had picked to live out their days. In summer it must have been a beautiful and abundant life.

I feel privileged to have had a glimpse into these people’s homes and I felt quite reflective as we walked along the beautiful beach at Skail Bay. It does make you wonder how much we have yet to discover.

 

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The mysterious Maeshowe

Maeshowe chamber

I just knew I was going to fall in love with these remote islands sitting between Norway and Scotland’s mainland. ‘How did you know this?’ I hear you cry. Well quite simply because The Orkney Islands bring together many of my favourite things in life; history, archaeology– oh – and the Scottish landscapes and welcoming people of course.

The Orkney Islands contain some of the oldest and best-preserved Neolithic sites in Europe, and the “Heart of Neolithic Orkney” is a designated UNESCO World Heritage Site. Naturally I was dying to see some of these sites with my own eyes. After all, I had read so much about them over the years.

Amongst the many treasures we discovered in Orkney, none was more surprising, nor more awe-inspiring than Maeshowe. For those who don’t know, Maeshowe is a Neolithic chambered tomb which pre-dates the Egyptian pyramids.

Instead of trying to muster up some new words on the subject I thought I would share some of the notes I wrote in my travel journal at the time. I think it captures my excitement.

 

Viking Vandals Visit

“Wow … Well the stand-out highlight of today was Maeshowe, a burial/ceremonial tomb near Skara Brae. It is one of the best examples of a chambered tomb in North West Europe – a master piece of Neolithic design (who knew I was such an expert on these matters). In addition to its own fascinating history there were even authentic runic carvings inside from those rogue “vandal Vikings”. Quite a boastful lot as it turned out. When translated the runes spoke of stolen treasure and of course there was the usual cheeky bragging men enjoy when exalting their prowess in all matters involving fighting, workmanship and women. There was so much to take in about Maeshowe, it was quite breathtaking. I just couldn’t stop looking around me and thinking wow! It was strangely emotional.”

As I mentioned in my journal, the fascinating story about Meashowe is the fact that not only does it have its own history dating back nearly 5000 years, but that history has been overlaid by another story nearly 4000 years later courtesy of those naughty Vikings.

I know both my partner and myself felt we had experienced something truly ‘different’. I think for Peter it was something more tangible as many of his family have roots in Norway. For me – well I was familiar and excited by the runes for another reason. I used to ‘read’ the runes in my teens and through my 20s. It was my earliest form of dabbling such matters. I used to enjoy looking at the carvings, and tracing their outline with my finger, wondering if I would ever be lucky enough to see authentic ones.

Mysteries of Maeshowe

It’s quite remarkable to think that Maeshowe is dated at around 2800 BC. The earth mound covered in grass cloaks a mysterious world inside. To enter you must bend down and shuffle (yes – even me – and I’m only 5ft 2 and a bit) through a low 9m long passage. The passage climbs slightly and enters the main square chamber. The sides of the chamber are made up of flat blocks fitted together. On three sides of the tomb there are additional side chambers. No-one is completely sure how these chambers were used but it is possible bones were laid in there.

Apart from its amazing structure, one of the more interesting aspects of its construction is its mid-winter alignment. In the weeks leading up to the winter solstice, the darkest time of the year, the last rays of sun shine through the entrance.

Of course there are many theories we can consider around the links between death and mid-winter, but the truth is we will never really know why Maeshow was aligned in such a way. Archaeologists are sure that those who crafted Maeshow were marking time in some way. I personally like to think Maeshowe was designed to illuminate the place where their dead loved ones lived on, providing them with light at the darkest time of the year.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Discover The Orkney Islands

 

 

The Standing Stones o' Stenness

The Standing Stones o’ Stenness

If you are one of those people who have fleetingly entertained the idea of The Orkney Islands as a possible destination for exploration but you haven’t got around to it yet – then I’m here to give you the virtual push you need.

I’ll admit I am slightly bias for all things Scottish, but The Orkney Islands is a place you must visit at least once in your life.

Now I’ll grant you, if you live in Scotland, you are probably thinking you would like to go somewhere warmer and less windy than from whence you came, but please don’t let climate cast your deciding vote. This place is awe-inspiring and well worth packing your woollies, hats and Kagool for. In fact, where The Orkney Islands are concerned I am reminded of the well known phrase “there is no such thing as bad weather – only the wrong clothing”.

The sight of those Viking inspired buildings vying for position as we neared the seaside port at Stromness is something that will stay with me for a very long time. I was enchanted before I even stepped off the ferry and I’m sure I’m not the first to have felt like that.

One of the things you will notice as you start up your engines and disembark from the ferry is an endless vista of lush green fields. We drove straight to Kirkwall which only took about half an hour. As we meandered through the lush farmlands I noticed many signs for areas of historic interest. This was the Orkney I had come to visit – everything from the Neolithic to the Bronze Age and Viking years can be found here.

Top of my list to visit is Skara Brae, a remarkably well-preserved Neolithic village on the edge of the bay of Skaill. It was covered up for thousands of years by shifting sand and was only revealed when a huge storm swept The Orkney Islands in 1850. I have always had a hankering to see this village for myself.

Scapa Flow also featured highly on our list of things to see and do. It is actually ranked as one of the world’s top diving sites since it so rich with maritime archaeology, but we are quite happy to see where all the action took place from dry land.

Kirkwall itself boasts the magnificent St Magnus Cathedral established in 1137, which is most definitely worth a wander around, however, it was tiny Italian chapel built by the Italian prisoners of war on the island of Lamb Holm that really moved me. The chapel started life as two Nissan huts pushed together end-to-end. The decorative artwork inside is stunning. I really felt I was in a sacred and spiritual space. There is a real sense of peace and serenity inside.

As you travel around you often find the best experiences are the ones that happen by chance – the ones you didn’t plan for. Until I had visited The Orkney Islands I had no knowledge of Maeshowe but an old wooden sign pointed it out to us on our way back from one of trips. We had time to spare so we thought we would check it out. I am so glad we did. I don’t know how many times I thought ‘wow’.

Maeshow is a Neolithic chambered tomb which pre-dates the Egyptian pyramids. The fascinating story about Meashowe is the fact that not only does it have its own history dating back nearly 5000 years, but that history has been overlaid by another story nearly 4000 years later courtesy of the Vikings.

Of course this is just a very brief taster of the magic of The Orkney Islands. Over the coming weeks I will add further posts with more on the ‘not to be missed’ aspects of this incredible place as well as some useful information about getting there and where to stay.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Paradise in Plockton


It’s the morning of our first full day in Kyle of Lochalsh. We sit down to yet another Scottish breakfast, absolving ourselves of the guilt by saying won’t eat lunch today to compensate. If you haven’t sampled the delights of a full Scottish breakfast, then prepare your stomach for a generous serving of eggs, back bacon, link sausage, sliced sausage, baked beans, black pudding, haggis, white pudding, fruit pudding, grilled tomato and mushrooms tattie (potato) scone, buttered toast and a pot of tea. Of course your arteries won’t thank you for the treat, but that’s another matter.

We consult our Talisker to-do list, and decide to drive to Plockton, a little village just over 11 miles away from Loch Duich Hotel. We promised Peter’s parents we would go and visit this spot as it was the location of one of their favourite TV shows. Other than that we have no real plans. We will just wait and see what this spot has to offer.

Getting off-track

As we look at the map, we realise that for our slice of heaven, we need to be prepared to drive the last part of the trip on a single-track road. Luckily the single track isn’t as onerous as the one you have to negotiate on Mull, but it is single-track nevertheless, so you need to take care and look ahead at the passing points.

From Loch Duich Hotel in the Kyle of Lochalsh, to Plockton is just over 11 miles, and it only takes about 20 minutes if you head north on the A87 route. From the A87 we take a turn on our right toward Innes Street and stay on this road for nearly four miles. Plockton is well sign posted, but you do feel you are going off the beaten track into the rambling farmlands and hillside.

We have to stop a few times as we sit and wait for oncoming traffic. The traffic consists of three or four heelan’ coos (Highland cows), and a few sheep who seem to be oblivious to the fact they are heading right toward our car. I love this interaction with cows and sheep. You are forced to slow down and really enjoy the journey. We take a few pictures, and Peter has made it his mission to get a close up to photograph a heelan’ coo. While he is off being David Attenborough of the North, I sit in the car and watch the butterflies and bees flit amongst the flowers growing wild on the sides of the track. I find it all incredibly quiet and relaxing.

Once my driver is back, somewhat muddy at the knees, we continue on our way. At the end of this three or four mile stretch of track, you turn left onto Harbour Street, and from here you can decide where you want to park.
NB: Alternatively, you could drive on the A890. The route is slightly longer, taking you around 30 minutes, but you are on a better class of road most of the way.

Hidden treasure

We park the car down one of the little side streets fairly easily, and are delighted to find parking is free. As we walk down toward the waterfront I feel my new-found calm is all around me. On our approach we couldn’t see the village itself, but the panorama that opens up before us now is breathtaking.

Imagine a place where proud swaying palm trees line the main street, the calm waters of the loch twinkle and the temperate breeze is restorative and soothing.

As we walk down to the waters edge we are met by a row of painted cottages all along the shoreline looking out across Plockton Bay. These are certainly rooms with a view, and you can only imagine how wonderful it must be to wake up in the morning and see the tiny yachts bobbing in the harbour, or the small boats coming in after a seal excursion, fishing trip or scuba dive out in Loch Carron. All of this, nestled like a little secret, in amongst the beautifully wild landscape of hills, heather and pine forests.

This small lochside village is arguably one of the the most idyllic little spots in Scotland. Yes, it’s hard to believe Palm trees and Scotland could be said in the same sentence together, but I’m here to tell you I have seen these Palm trees for myself. As someone who was born and raised in Scotland, I was always fascinated by Palm trees. They seemed so exotic to me. In fact it was a dream of mine to live in a climate warm enough to grow Palm trees. Little did I realise I didn’t have to move so far from home to find them.

This sub tropical scenery and temperate winter climate is due to the current that carries warm tropical water from the Gulf of Mexico to the North Atlantic. Technically, at this point the current changes its name from the Gulf Stream to the North Atlantic Drift. The North Atlantic Drift continues to circulate this warm water to the shores of the West of Scotland Ireland, South West England, and a small part of Wales. The air above this warm current takes some of the heat from the water and takes this warm air across the British Isles. In winter, this keeps the British Isles warmer than would be expected at this northerly latitude.

Charmed life

Plockton Highland Cow
As I mentioned in my opening post, your idea of a great holiday or trip may be very different to the next person, but on a general level, we are all looking for a change from our normal, day-to-day life.

This is the ideal spot if you are looking for a peaceful, tranquil experience. It’s so beautiful, that in parts, it may look too charming, if that’s possible. That said, the wilds of the hills surrounding the area, helps redress the balance if you like things more on the rugged side.

As we meander slowly along the High Street, we notice a few of these painted cottages are actually shops selling artwork, crafts and handmade items from jam to knitted jumpers. Peter treats me to a charm bracelet and I am delighted to find the box has a little photograph stuck inside it, showing where it had been crafted. On speaking to the locals, we find out this is an area that many artists and creative types seek out because of the atmosphere and the unique light in the area.

The village provides lots of opportunity for us to go walking off into the surrounding hillside, hire mountain bikes, or explore the little windy side streets. We take a walk up the hillside behind the village and the view is even more spectacular from this vantage point.

Before we leave Plockton, we decide it would be remiss of us if we didn’t visit The Plockton Hotel. The hotel has won numerous awards for its dining, it’s most recent one from the Good Pub Guide, as The Scottish Dining Pub of the Year, 2011. We take a walk back down to the seafront and settle in for some local fare. Having just worked off our Scottish breakfast, we decide to treat ourselves to Fish and Chips. Well maybe we will just have a light dinner tonight we decide.

If you are in the area of Eilean Donan Castle, or the Kyle of Lochalsh, I would encourage you to take a little bit of extra time to go and visit this beautiful spot. Even better, make it your base for a couple of days and really relax and recharge yourself. In terms of passing the time here, there is as little or as much to do as you could possibly want. Bring your walking boots or flippers, or pitch up with your paintbrush and canvas, or simply a good book. There literally is something here for everyone.

For me, this little spot will be a treasured snapshot of what a picturesque paradise looks like. My happy place to retreat to the next time I am sitting bumper to bumper in traffic. I just image each angry face behind the wheel as a big ginger heelan’ coo.

“All of this, nestled like a little secret, in amongst the beautifully 
wild landscape of hills, heather and pine forests”

 

 

 

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