A taste of Talisker

ScotlandI hadn’t thought too much about what we were going to do once we actually arrived in the Kyle of Lochalsh. All that was driving me to this point was a desire to see Kintail and its surrounding area, try to find out a little bit about the MacRaes, and to visit Eilean Donan Castle. However, I soon realise that the three days we have planned here are not enough to fully explore all that the Kyle of Lochalsh has to offer.

This is definitely the place to come if you are an outdoors type. The beauty of this area is that it is totally unspoilt. The views are stunning. Trees and heather cover the hills, providing ample food and safety for the abundant wildlife. Streams and waterfalls cascade from the mountains in an avalanche of rainbows. Sorry if I sound like a “Visit Scotland” advertisement, but it is a beautiful sight.

With so much to do we decide to sit down and draw up a list. Of course to draw up a list, we need some liquid refreshment in Loch Duich’s ‘family’ bar. Perhaps sample the local whisky … a wee single malt by the name of Talisker.

This is a ‘personal journey’ and becausewe only have three days before we drive North for the Ferry to Orkney, our top 5 must see and do list looks something like this:

  • Sample the local produce from the hills and lochs
  • Visit Eilean Donan Castle
  • Investigate the MacRae history in the area
  • Explore surrounding villages around the loch – particularly Plockton
  • Take the ferry or cross the bridge to Skye (while singing “Speed bonny boat” – optional)

With the first item on our list nearly taken care of already, we decide on a relaxing wander across the road to the picturesque Eilean Donan Castle. But first … maybe one more Talisker for the road.

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The romance of Skye

As a child, I was first introduced to the Isle of Skye through my Scottish history lessons and the ‘Skye Boat Song’. Both told tales of how Bonny Prince Charlie, with the help of Flora MacDonald, escaped to Skye after his defeat at the Battle of Culloden in 1746. Perhaps it’s as a result of these tales but Skye has always intrigued me and conjured up romantic, mystical images of passion, historic feuds and bloody battles.

This is a unique environment and the scenery inspires and stirs the senses (as Virginia Woolf testifies in ‘To the Lighthouse’). Skye is a place of extremes and presents many faces. The coastline is a series of peninsulas and bays radiating  from a centre dominated by the stark, black rise of the jagged Cuillin hills. In contrast, a busy patchwork of little sandy beaches, inlets, bays and islands, tiny villages and historic keeps scatter the landscape. Breathing beneath every footstep lies 500 million years of history, and yet above ground, every passing cloud or ray of sunshine can totally change the personality and feel of the place in an instant.

This is the place National Geographic voted the fourth best island in the world.

Enjoy the journey

So often we hear phrases like ‘life isn’t the destination, it’s the journey’, or ‘it’s not just about the destination, but the journey too’. Getting to the Isle of Skye is a bit like that. The surrounding scenery is so beautiful and interesting, you can have as much fun getting there – and it’s very easy to get there these days.

Caledondian MacBrayne operate ferry services to and from the island on routes from Armadale to Mallaig and from Uig to The Western Isles. In addition there are CalMac ferries serving Raasay from Sconser and The Small Isles (Canna, Rùm, Eigg and Muck) from Mallaig.

Alternatively, why not hop on the train. ScotRail run services throughout the UK to Kyle of Lochalsh and Mallaig. The scenery along these rail routes is stunning and cannot be recommended highly enough.

We decided to travel via the Skye Bridge, which spans from Kyle of Lochalsh to Kyleakin.  For most people this will be your gateway to Skye. Though originally a toll bridge, there is now no toll so access to the Island across the bridge is free.

Portree

Once on the island, it can be difficult to decide what to see and do. At 1,656 square kilometres Skye is the second-largest island in Scotland after Lewis and Harris – so there’s plenty of ground to cover. Of all the Inner Hebrides, Skye has the most in common with the Outer Hebrides, with half the population speaking Gaelic, and many belonging to the Free Church of Scotland, known for its strict observance of the Sabbath. I remembered my best friend, whose mother came from Lewis, telling me you couldn’t listen to the radio or mow your lawn on a Sunday. It is ‘strictly’ a day of rest.

We decided to head to the island’s main town of Portree. It is a popular spot and is well known for its picturesque natural harbour.

Portree is also the cultural hub for Skye and one of its main attractions, the award-winning Aros Centre, runs regular theatre, concerts and film screenings. The centre also incorporates an exhibition capturing the drama of Skye’s history, a spectacular RSPB exhibit with live and recorded footage of rare sea eagles plus an audio-visual presentation giving a dramatic aerial view of Skye’s incredible landscapes.

If you like the harbour/seaside feel then you will enjoy the hustle and bustle of Portree. For those handy with a camera, the painted buildings, jostling for position along the water’s edge make a great snapshot in their own right. Of course, as with any seaside location, you need to share your walk, and possibly your fish and chips, with some of the largest seagulls I have ever seen in my life.

Pre-historic meets modern day

If you prefer a bit of history, then there are plenty of historical sites to interest you on Skye – pick any period over the last 500 million years.

Columba is said to have visited Skye shortly before 697, but it was the Norse that held power throughout the Hebrides from the 9th century until after the Treaty of Perth in 1266. Little remains of their presence in the written or archaeological record on Skye.

One of the two most powerful clans on the Island, Clan MacLeod, claims Viking heritage and Norse tradition is celebrated in the winter fire festival at Dunvegan, during which a replica Viking long boat is set alight.

Skye has a rich heritage of ancient monuments and castles. Dunvegan Castle has been the seat of Clan MacLeod since the 13th century. It contains the Fairy Flag (I’ll leave you to do your research on that one) and is reputed to have been inhabited by a single family for longer than any other house in Scotland. One of the highlights for me, was seeing a waistcoat that belonged to Bonnie Prince Charlie mounted on the wall. Quite amazing to think he actually wore that.

Elsewhere on Skye is the 18th century Armadale Castle, once home of Clan Donald of Sleat, but was abandoned as a residence in 1925. It now hosts the Clan Donald Centre, so if you are interested in Clan history, you should drop in.

Nearby are the ruins of two more MacDonald strongholds, Knock Castle, and Dunscaith Castle, built in the late 15th century near Kyleakin and once a seat of Clan MacKinnon, is another ruin.

Sadly, the Highland Clearances had a major impact on the population of Skye and the ruins of a cleared village can be seen at Boreraig, Strath Swordale.

A taste of Talisker

Of course, no trip to Skye would be complete without making mention of the Talisker Distillery which lies on Loch Harport on the west coast of the Isle of Skye. If you are a fan of this peaty drop then make time to head over and sample some local produce.

I could never do the Isle of Skye justice in this short post, but rest assured, Skye has it all. Hopefully I have provided you with the essence of this remote spot, and perhaps inspired you to make the trip – over the sea to Skye.

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MacRaes in the mist

One of the highlights of our stay at Loch Duich Hotel, is being right across the road from Eilean Donan Castle and being able to see it every morning. It’s a room with a majestic view.

The castle itself is on a little islet in the loch, and it is joined to the land by a stone bridge. Looking out from our unique vantage point, we really feel as if we have one of the most picturesque castles in Scotland right here in our front garden.

Many people stop at the castle on the way to the Isle of Skye, and in the short time we have been here, we have observed a handful of tourist-laden buses making their stop-over across the road. With this in mind, this has to be a carefully timed operation. I do not want to share ‘my family castle’ with bus loads of tourists. (It’s OK, I am joking – to a point.) It’s funny to think that one minute you can feel totally isolated and away from all other signs of human life – until the bus load arrives out of thin air. I have to say though, as ‘tourists’ go, the breed I have observed thus far have been the well-behaved, thinking types, so don’t worry if you are concerned about crowds. These are very quiet, respectful crowds – you will hardly know they are there.

Historical background

Well you can’t visit a castle without hearing a little bit about it’s history, so here is a very brief encounter with some of Eilean Donan’s history.

The original castle was built in 1220 as a defence against the raiding Vikings. At this time the area was at the boundary of the Norse-Celtic Lordship of the Isles and the Earldom of Ross: Eilean Donan provided a strong defensive position against these Norse expeditions.

The name Eilean Donan, means island of Donan, and was probably named after the 6th century Irish Saint, Bishop Donan who came to Scotland around 580 AD. There are several churches dedicated to him in the area, and it is thought he formed a small cell, or community on the island during the late 7th century.

The area of Kintail was originally part of the estates of Clan Mackenzie. It is thought that the MacRaes first came to Kintail in the 14th century, having previously earned a reputation as fighting men in the service of the Lovats. The MacRaes very kindly agreed to render the same service to the Mackenzies in return for lands in Kintail (a fair deal). This relationship between the MacRaes and the Mackenzies endured until the demise of the clan system. In recognition of this loyal service, that the MacRaes became the Constables of Eilean Donan in 1511.

Sadly the castle was destroyed during the Jacobite rebellion in 1715 (I’ll leave that story to the Tour Guides to tell you), and for the next 200 years Eilean Donan lay ruined and neglected, until Lt Colonel John Macrae-Gilstrap bought the island in 1911. Along with his Clerk of Works, Farquar MacRae, he worked tirelessly to restore Eilena Donan to her former glory. This labour of love took him just over 20 years to complete.

Nowadays, the Conchra Charitable Trust take care of the castle, ensuring it is there for many more generations to enjoy. The principal activity of the Trust is the restoration and preservation of the Castle and to allow public access to this unique visitor attraction. The Trust’s income is derived from entrance charges and associated visitor proceeds and from donations to the charity.

Family connection

I jokingly refer to Eilean Donan as being my castle or my family’s ancestral home. I think I would have to do a lot of digging to find proof of such a claim, (and that’s even if there was any) but it’s certainly an interesting thought. When you look at the ancient burial grounds and realise the whole area was full of Clan MacRae it’s all the more exciting in some ways. Of course, the MacRaes did settle in other areas of Scotland, but this area is the seat of the Clan and so it is of great significance.

Amusingly enough, my mum’s brother had visited Eilean Donan Castle many years ago and had told me there was a wax figure of the Lady of the House, overseeing the servants preparing a meal in the main kitchen. Apparently this wax figure was the image of mum – or at least how he would picture her in her older years. After a bit of research I found out that the Lady of the House was of course – a MacRae – so you can imagine my excitement. I think many of us deep down have illusions of grandeur, or secretly dream that we are the unknown – soon to be discovered- heirs to a fortune – or in my case – a castle.

Taking the tour

If you are in the area, you should certainly make the stop at Eilean Donan. It is a beautiful area and, if you enjoy photography, you won’t be disappointed with the panorama.

If you would like information on opening hours or the price of tickets at various points in the season, then visit the official Eilean Donan Castle website.

On your way around the kitchen quarters, please feel free to say hello to the diminutive force that was Lt Colonel John Macrae-Gilstrap’s wife – Lady MacRae – as she oversees dinner being prepared. I’m delighted to say I did catch a certain look in her eye that felt very familiar.

 

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A personal journey

The West Coast of Scotland is magnificent. I knew it and appreciated it even when I was growing up there. The sight of the lochs as they nudge gently in the laps of the mountains always makes me smile. It’s a sight that still resonates deep within and equates to being ‘home’ in the spiritual sense of the word. That enveloping protection as the mountains rise up around you is warming – despite the cold, blustery conditions outside (and yes, I know I said it was Summer).

We are travelling from Oban to the Kyle of Lochalsh.  I specifically want to drive through Kintail. To our right we pass Loch Garry, Loch Lovle, Loch Cluani, the Roderick Mackenzie’s Memorial, and the proud Five Sisters of Kintail and Lundie. As we weave our way around the mountains like tinsel on a Christmas tree, along with the popping ears, I begin to feel goosebumps and the hairs on the back of my neck tingle. I know the beauty of my surroundings is something that will stay with me for a very long time to come.

I had very personal reasons for this visit to  Kintail. It is the seat of the MacRae Clan – the place where many of my ancestors came from. In all my years in Scotland I have never been to this area, but I knew I would visit, and had to visit, one day.

Having recently lost my mother, who is a descendent from the MacRae line, I felt compelled to return, as if somehow that would help me connect with her – and remind me that we are all part of something much bigger. I also brought along my (at the time new) Australian partner. I wanted him to see my beautiful country. I also felt I was introducing him to the rest of my family. To date he is the only person I have shared that experience with so it felt truly special, and I hoped that he realised the symbolic nature of our visit.

I am thinking about all these things as l look at the windy roads open up in front of us, and I can’t help but feel a little emotional. I am finally here.

We continue to follow the road beside the loch, at the foot of these impressive mountains. The road takes us up to the top end of the loch and then hooks round, down the other side. It’s a beautiful drive, and we spend most of the time in silence just looking around us in quiet, respectful wonder. To the right of us we see our base for the next few days.

The Loch Duich Hotel

There is a vast array of accommodation to choose from in Kintail including self catering, bed and breakfast or hotels and lodges. We choose Loch Duich Hotel for our visit. I am particularly excited about the prospect of having a four poster bed in the room, complete with balcony and a breathtaking view of Eilean Donan Castle from our bedroom window. The website for Loch Duich Hotel promised character and it certainly has plenty of it. If the talk of four poster beds and balconies has you thinking of bourgeois grandeur, then think again. If you are looking for slick, polished features and the bland air of a fully modernised hotel, then you have come to the wrong spot. To be totally honest, the bathroom is a bit on the small side, the floor boards are rickety and complain loudly when we move, and there is no hint of a mini-bar in sight. It’s perfect! The view and location is awe-inspiring. As I admire the view from our balcony I surmise I would have happily foregone all basic human comforts in order to soak up the beauty and luxury (albeit on a different scale) of my surroundings.

The staff at the Loch Duich Hotel treated us like family. Quite literally! One evening I had been unable to finish the  generous plateful that had been served up at dinner. I had felt quite guilty about the fact I couldn’t eat it all, but I felt ten times worse when the proprietor came looking for me after dinner to ask what was wrong with the meal, and why hadn’t I eaten it? I was immediately transported back home as a child, being chastised for not eating all my greens. Many people, more used to a city/impersonal service, may feel a little uncomfortable with that level of “family” hospitality.  For me, it was just another quirky, yet endearing quality of the hotel, something else to love about Kintail. I made sure I left room for my dinner the next night.

“I surmise I would have happily
foregone all basic human comforts in
order to soak up the beauty and luxury
(albeit on a different scale) of my surroundings”

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Sydney to Sauchiehall Street


We land at Glasgow Airport on a warm Sunday morning on July 3rd at around 12.30 pm. It may sound like an understatement but the flight from Sydney to Glasgow has left us feeling exhausted.  Twenty three hours of cooped up exhaustion, on top of the tiredness after all the usual stress that accompanies ‘time off’. Our flights stopped in Bangkok and Dubai, which surprises me. Note to self – read the itinerary before take-off in future.

Of course the airline food has left us feeling bloated and sluggish. Not that the food was bad – far from it. It’s more a question of volume and frequency. It seems you never stop eating on these flights and the time zones are all over the place so when you are served up a full meal at what would be your 6am it can be a bit of a challenge. But apart from those minor, and anticipated factors, the flight was good.

We are delighted to find the sun is shining brilliantly. It is a thoroughly gorgeous, warm, summer’s day. What a pleasant surprise, after all the jokes of summer in Scotland lasting a period of two days if you’re lucky.

Even in Glasgow I can hear the seagulls. It’s a sound that reminds me I’m home.

After crawling exhausted to bed around 8pm or 9pm, it’s somewhat disconcerting to wake up at 2.30am to the noisy verve in the city street below. There are people screaming loudly and making their way home after enjoying the long summer day. That’s the beauty of the summer months in Scotland. The day goes on and on, never getting properly dark. It brings people out of their houses with a sense of urgency. Make hay while the sun shines. It’s as if there is a need to cram all the fun and all the living possible into each day, before the winter wraps her steely grasp around the country again. We know we need to sleep …

Room 207, Ramada

It is the smallest room we have ever seen. We marvel at how our luggage occupies the only available floor space. We even take pictures just to prove it to ourselves later how tiny that room was. That said, we don’t really care. We just need a base – somewhere to shower and lay our heads after our long flight. We are heading over to the East Coast tomorrow, to Fife, to meet my family.

I keep getting bouts of involuntary giggles about Peter saying “at least the screaming has subsided” (from our 2.30am wake-up). Glasgow is certainly living up to its reputation as a ‘lively’ city.

Sauchiehall and Buchanan Street

We’ve just had a wander around Sauchiehall and Buchanan Street. These are the main shopping/business streets in the city centre of Glasgow, so if you need to shop, that’s where to go. It feels strange for me to be back here. Last time I was here was a few years ago with my daughter. She had appreciated the stunning and elaborate architecture and had taken numerous photographs. Before then, I couldn’t remember that last time I had been to Glasgow. Though it was fitting we started the journey here. This is where I was born.

My mum’s favourite place here was the Willow Tearooms, designed in 1903 by Charles Rennie Mackintosh. It has been restored to its original artistic designs and is still open to the public as a tea room. I see the sign and I feel a poignant turn in my belly as I think of her and how she loved this place.

Time for a coffee!

I am anxious to be on our way, but we take a quick drive around the some of the backstreets before heading East. The highs and lows of Glasgow … I  feel we are gradually easing into the holiday spirit.

“That’s the beauty of the summer months
in Scotland. The day goes on and on,
never getting properly dark”

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