One of the highlights of our stay at Loch Duich Hotel, is being right across the road from Eilean Donan Castle and being able to see it every morning. It’s a room with a majestic view.
The castle itself is on a little islet in the loch, and it is joined to the land by a stone bridge. Looking out from our unique vantage point, we really feel as if we have one of the most picturesque castles in Scotland right here in our front garden.
Many people stop at the castle on the way to the Isle of Skye, and in the short time we have been here, we have observed a handful of tourist-laden buses making their stop-over across the road. With this in mind, this has to be a carefully timed operation. I do not want to share ‘my family castle’ with bus loads of tourists. (It’s OK, I am joking – to a point.) It’s funny to think that one minute you can feel totally isolated and away from all other signs of human life – until the bus load arrives out of thin air. I have to say though, as ‘tourists’ go, the breed I have observed thus far have been the well-behaved, thinking types, so don’t worry if you are concerned about crowds. These are very quiet, respectful crowds – you will hardly know they are there.
Historical background
Well you can’t visit a castle without hearing a little bit about it’s history, so here is a very brief encounter with some of Eilean Donan’s history.
The original castle was built in 1220 as a defence against the raiding Vikings. At this time the area was at the boundary of the Norse-Celtic Lordship of the Isles and the Earldom of Ross: Eilean Donan provided a strong defensive position against these Norse expeditions.
The name Eilean Donan, means island of Donan, and was probably named after the 6th century Irish Saint, Bishop Donan who came to Scotland around 580 AD. There are several churches dedicated to him in the area, and it is thought he formed a small cell, or community on the island during the late 7th century.
The area of Kintail was originally part of the estates of Clan Mackenzie. It is thought that the MacRaes first came to Kintail in the 14th century, having previously earned a reputation as fighting men in the service of the Lovats. The MacRaes very kindly agreed to render the same service to the Mackenzies in return for lands in Kintail (a fair deal). This relationship between the MacRaes and the Mackenzies endured until the demise of the clan system. In recognition of this loyal service, that the MacRaes became the Constables of Eilean Donan in 1511.
Sadly the castle was destroyed during the Jacobite rebellion in 1715 (I’ll leave that story to the Tour Guides to tell you), and for the next 200 years Eilean Donan lay ruined and neglected, until Lt Colonel John Macrae-Gilstrap bought the island in 1911. Along with his Clerk of Works, Farquar MacRae, he worked tirelessly to restore Eilena Donan to her former glory. This labour of love took him just over 20 years to complete.
Nowadays, the Conchra Charitable Trust take care of the castle, ensuring it is there for many more generations to enjoy. The principal activity of the Trust is the restoration and preservation of the Castle and to allow public access to this unique visitor attraction. The Trust’s income is derived from entrance charges and associated visitor proceeds and from donations to the charity.
Family connection
I jokingly refer to Eilean Donan as being my castle or my family’s ancestral home. I think I would have to do a lot of digging to find proof of such a claim, (and that’s even if there was any) but it’s certainly an interesting thought. When you look at the ancient burial grounds and realise the whole area was full of Clan MacRae it’s all the more exciting in some ways. Of course, the MacRaes did settle in other areas of Scotland, but this area is the seat of the Clan and so it is of great significance.
Amusingly enough, my mum’s brother had visited Eilean Donan Castle many years ago and had told me there was a wax figure of the Lady of the House, overseeing the servants preparing a meal in the main kitchen. Apparently this wax figure was the image of mum – or at least how he would picture her in her older years. After a bit of research I found out that the Lady of the House was of course – a MacRae – so you can imagine my excitement. I think many of us deep down have illusions of grandeur, or secretly dream that we are the unknown – soon to be discovered- heirs to a fortune – or in my case – a castle.
Taking the tour
If you are in the area, you should certainly make the stop at Eilean Donan. It is a beautiful area and, if you enjoy photography, you won’t be disappointed with the panorama.
If you would like information on opening hours or the price of tickets at various points in the season, then visit the official Eilean Donan Castle website.
On your way around the kitchen quarters, please feel free to say hello to the diminutive force that was Lt Colonel John Macrae-Gilstrap’s wife – Lady MacRae – as she oversees dinner being prepared. I’m delighted to say I did catch a certain look in her eye that felt very familiar.
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